Throubi: A menu framed by Santorini’s most romantic sunset

There are restaurants with a view, and then there is Throubi, where the landscape becomes an essential part of dinner. Set within Andronis Concept Wellness, the restaurant looks out towards the Aegean and offers the most beautiful view of the world’s most famous and romantic sunset.

As evening falls, Santorini seems to change colour by the minute: pale gold becomes amber, then a fiery orange spreads across the horizon while the sun casts a long, shimmering reflection over the sea.

From the terrace, the spectacle feels almost cinematic. It would be easy for such a setting to overshadow the food, but head chef Doris Dimou creates a degustation menu with enough personality and precision to hold its own against the view.

Canapés

The trio of amuse-bouches opened the meal with confidence, even if not every note landed with equal precision.

The first was the most immediately compelling: a delicate, crisp cone concealing sour cream at its base and crowned with red shrimp tartare. The interplay was excellent—the cone shattered cleanly, the sour cream brought cool acidity, and the shrimp retained its sweetness and pristine marine character.

Next came a beignet filled with a velvety cream made from Greek yellow smoked cheese and salami from Lefkada on top. Warm, airy and deeply savoury, it delivered a satisfying contrast between its light fried shell and the assertive, smoky richness within. It was indulgent without becoming heavy, and perhaps the most comforting bite of the sequence.

The final, a financier topped with cream and caviar, was the most divisive. Visually elegant and texturally refined, it had the makings of a clever sweet-savoury finale. Unfortunately, the financier itself was noticeably too sweet, dulling the caviar’s salinity rather than sharpening it. The cream softened the contrast further. Still, the idea was intriguing, and with a more restrained sweetness, it could have been as accomplished as the two bites that preceded it. As an opening statement, however, the trio showed considerable ambition.

 

The courses

The opening bites immediately introduce the kitchen’s contemporary interpretation of Greek and Mediterranean flavours before the Tomato course establishes a strong sense of place. Santorini tomato is partnered with verbena and olive, a deceptively simple combination that allows the island’s produce to speak clearly.

The tomato delivers natural sweetness and acidity, olive contributes depth and salinity, while verbena adds a delicate aromatic freshness. It is an elegant beginning and a reminder that luxury does not always require complexity.

The semi cured Amberjack, accompanied by citrus fruits, a touch of truffle and almond, is considerably more adventurous. Bright citrus cuts through the richness of the fish, almond introduces texture and gentle nuttiness, and truffle contributes its unmistakable earthy perfume. The contrasting elements are handled with restraint, creating a dish that moves effortlessly between freshness and indulgence.

Next comes Scallops with beurre blanc sauce and leek, perhaps the most classically luxurious combination of the opening sequence. The natural sweetness of scallop is amplified by the silky butter sauce, while leek supplies a softer vegetal sweetness. Rich without becoming excessive, it is the sort of dish that demonstrates how effective impeccable execution can be.

A serving of bread, an no-knead focaccia and olive oil follows, with greek hearbs. In this context, its simplicity feels entirely appropriate: a Mediterranean pause between the lighter opening dishes and the more substantial courses ahead.

One of the unquestionable highlights is the Acquerello rice. This is not simply a rice course but an exceptional risotto, made with prized Acquerello rice and enriched with bottarga and sea urchin. Each spoonful seems saturated with the flavour of the Aegean Sea. The bottarga contributes concentration and salinity, sea urchin provides sweetness, richness and an almost creamy marine intensity. Above everything is that unmistakable flavour of sea iodine, powerful yet beautifully controlled. It is a deeply savoury dish whose luxurious texture and oceanic character make it one of the most memorable plates of the evening.

The simply named Fish, seabream in this case, paired with fennel, peas and Greek lettuce, changes direction completely. After the intensity of the risotto, it feels clean, green and refreshing. Fennel contributes its characteristic aniseed perfume, peas bring sweetness, and lettuce provides a crisp vegetal note. The result is light and composed, allowing the quality of the fish to remain at the center.

The savoury progression concludes with Beef, potato, wild mushrooms and truffle. Here the menu moves from the sea decisively towards the earth. Mushrooms and truffle amplify the meat’s savoury depth while potato provides familiarity and comfort.

It is richer and more substantial than the preceding courses but sensibly portioned, giving the degustation the crescendo it needs without weighing down the diner before dessert.

Desserts

Pastry chef Pavlina Mylona brings a notably fresh, elegant character to the final stages of the menu.

The Caramelised Milk, paired with goat milk and seasonal fruit, is more complex and distinctive. Goat milk introduces a gentle tang against the deeper caramelised flavours, while the fruit brings acidity and freshness. Most striking is the finishing detail: a delicate disc of opaline flavoured with fig. Fine and almost jewel-like in appearance, the crisp opaline adds texture before dissolving on the palate, while its fig character provides a distinctly Mediterranean final accent. A selection of mignardises then brings the meal gracefully to its conclusion.

Wine

Wine is an in part of the experience. The pairing, curated by restaurant manager Giota Kemalidou, confidently follows a menu that travels from tomato and citrus through bottarga and sea urchin to truffle, beef and caramelised milk.

The restaurant’s wine cellar, holding around 350 wines, deserves attention in its own right, offering considerable depth and making Throubi as compelling for wine lovers as it is for gastronomes.

Just as memorable is the excellent service. The team navigates a lengthy degustation with professionalism, warmth and well-judged timing, explaining dishes and wines without allowing the evening to feel overly formal.